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Permalink Reply by don on January 20, 2012 at 10:42am

ok this is what i see

-nnnnnnnn+nnnnnnnn- i call this 2n8

that is 19 plates with 1 common that is 9 gaps on 24 volts  this is 2.66 volts per gap

Faraday says 1.2 volts is where electrolysis starts thanks carter you can run any voltage per gap from 1 volt to 3 volts i agree. But most reactors run from 1.7 to 2 volts with koh. Now if we were using say the ureria as a electrolyte then the generator needs to run at a higher gap voltage like 3 according to smart scarecrow . If the electrolyte is NAOH you can at a different volt per gap. Look at baking soda sodium bicarbonate

The generator acts like a super capacitor.

The ambient air temp also effects the design a generator made for a area of 60 F compared to here where it is 115 F

the generator/reactor temp should always be as cool as you can have it. i run mine around 120 do to the temp on the bench at 100.

ok that being said 19 plates 6 by 6 gives you approx 1190.25 inches that is a 1/4 inch gasket

i went with 2.75 inches to a watt allows 432.7 total watts giving you 18 amps total with 24 volts

If you cell is a 7 MMW  that is 142.85 watts per litre  giving you a total output of 3.02

remember this is also adjustable a watt will run hotter as 2 inches them 3

gap spacing also effects the temp due to the dialectic constant

Carter says "I think you will need to go to .125" gaskets to allow the volume of HHO to exit fast enough without causing bubble occlusion."

 I have seen this also seen this on large lpm generators/reactors  the question is is this large?

flow rate is what i would look at. Is the cell staying flooded? Is there burping?

Now at 130F reactor temp your very close to killing your electrolyte boiling it out

i would suggest a bubblier to scrub and neutralise the gas in a koh electrolyte add a little acid (vinegar)

this would be a second bubblier my first bubblier is also the main reservoir

Carter an I agree on a great number of things

I wont comment on how to get it into the ice

but the closer to the valves the better. hho likes to stay in a place it really doesn't like to move unless it is under a very strong pull.

Is this diamond shape generator a copy of a smack's version?

i hope this helps

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Interaction calculatedPermalink Reply by Francisco Rosado on January 20, 2012 at 1:43pm

This is what i'm working with. Sadly in Dominican Republic i cant  find the machinery or quality materials to build a decent hydrogen generator myself. I have tested more than 20 different hydrogen systems. Sadly almost all of them are poorly made or designed. I dream the day car companies implement the technology or someone figures an accurate OBDII solutions.

This is a picture of the 4'11'' i use for 4-6 cilinders up to 3.0L, some times i use a 4''9''. My favorite one is definitly 6'11''

I use a positive flow reservoir, i insert the gas in an upper connector and run a hose to the bottom. The cell can handle the preasure of both connectors in the bottom but i rather run it as smooth as posible. I also use a twin bubbler, one chamber for expansion and condensation and the second to filter the contents with a little vinegar if im running the 4'9 cell.

Im always testing new products, i will post my reviews later of each one there is. I think that would be interesting for a lot of people. Not really the scientific part but my tests runs.

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Interaction calculatedPermalink Reply by hHOFEe on January 21, 2012 at 4:24pm

WOAH... back the truck up... Don has a crystal ball!!!!!! I want one!!!!! where did you get it Don? :-}

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Permalink Reply by don on January 22, 2012 at 9:53am

lol over here hhofee

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Permalink Reply by Stephen on January 28, 2012 at 12:07pm

Just a thought: does this truck have an onboard computer?  If so, did you reset the computer after installing the system? 

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Permalink Reply by Mike Walsh on February 4, 2012 at 10:29pm

First, I would try varying the amount of HHO. The best way to do so with the least hassle is a CCPWM. http://www.bettermpgtoday.com/apps/webstore/products/show/2453423

Run higher amounts then lower amounts of HHO and see if at any point you feel a clear difference in power or performance. If you don't at any time, run approximately 2-2.5LPM, then find your MAP or MAF sensor cut the Vref wire and instead use a VRef modifier to drop the peceived load by adjusting the VRef down from 5 volts to something like say, 4.7. That should cut back on the fuel while allowing some savings.

 

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Interaction calculatedPermalink Reply by Francisco Rosado on February 8, 2012 at 10:06am

Hi guys!

You guys were right, I had to add the 2 extra neutral plates, the trucks were frying the cell. They are now working smoothly at 2.4V  those babies work at 28V. I tripled checked again and there are no electronics i can tweak. I was thinking of increasing the fuel return line diameter but i rather not touch anything in those engine.  I'm starting to hate 2010 trucks :)

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