Comment

Comment by skysabre on June 1, 2010 at 3:36am

This may work with the hot wire type, where air flow cools the wires and triggers more fuel feed. The diverter makes the air avoid the hot wires (to some extent), so there would be less air flow sensed. This is why the diverter is positioned BEFORE the sensor.

The diverter can rotate around a pivot so that air flow through the MAF sensor can be adjusted.

I would like to try this in my Isuzu, but I can't find a security torx screw driver. I have a spare intake tube which could be put to use for the experiment.

The diverter will not affect the total air flow volume.

Comment by Gary on May 31, 2010 at 11:46pm

I see only one difference. You have x amount of air going into the engine, and you are diverting a part of that from flowing over the MAF sensor, either before or after. The only thing that would be any different would be the circular turbulence after the diverter. If (the diverter) is in front, the MAF is subjected to it; if after, the MAF is merely seeing less flow, as it sits in the high pressure region before the diverter. BTW, there were several types of MAF sensors in the Wikipedia article, so each would be considered differently.

Comment by B Mutia on May 31, 2010 at 9:14pm

That is probably why I get a check engine light if I do it before the MAF .. but better MPG after it.

Comment by Gary on May 31, 2010 at 8:46pm

This from the Wikipedia description of MAF sensors:
Hot Wire MAF sensors are very prone to sensing wire element contamination. A condition referred to by many technicians as “growing hairs” happens when debris, dirt from cheap air filters and outside air stick to the sensing wire element, shielding it from the incoming air. This shielding effect prevents the MAF sensor from correctly measuring the air flow and mass causing severe air-fuel ratio control problems. An ECM not in control while at pre-load is a strong indication of a dirty MAF.
The question is not that it will work or not; it's how it affects the ECU control and how long before my dang Chevy figures it out. Which it will. Every time.
I see this as different from a clogged air filter or restricting the intake now. The air is still going in.

Comment by B Mutia on May 31, 2010 at 7:56pm

Skysabre,

The adjustable air flow deflector looks good. I think you can try positioning that before or after he MAF as long as the HHO feed is always behind the sensor and the deflector. I'm excited what your actual test results come up with. Also, man, you are good with graphic diagrams.

Comment by skysabre on May 31, 2010 at 7:01pm

I must apologize for barging in, but here is another drawing of a diverter:

The red thing is a deflector that can be adjusted. It's purpose is to redirect air flow inside the intake tube away from the MAF sensor wires., It is shaped like a V instead if a simple angled vane to make sure that air is directed away from the top and bottom of the MAF sensor. It can be rotated around a pivot so that if we so wish, some air can still be made to pass over the sensor wires.

The shape of the deflector also lessens the air resistance presented by the side of the MAF sensor.

Comment by B Mutia on May 30, 2010 at 8:46pm

Try reflashing again .. but before driving it again restrict the air intake about 25% of the total area after the MAF. Drive it for a week to let the ECU establish a baseline. After a week you can start injecting HHO but do not remove the air restriction after the MAF.

Comment by Gary on May 30, 2010 at 4:22pm

Yes. When I first did it, it would simply get the gains back. When it wouldn't do that so well any more, I tried various startups after flash: no HHO for a while, driving harder for a while, HHO and harder driving, and back to hypermiling. At present, I have quit reflashing and accept 1 to 1-1/2 mpg gain over stock, where I was getting about 3 before.
I'm making up the Acetone/xylene/2stroke oil mix to try next. I'm curious.

Comment by B Mutia on May 29, 2010 at 8:57pm

Gary, so after reflashing when you turned the engine on, the booster was injecting HHO gas for sometime?

Comment by Gary on May 29, 2010 at 7:56pm

As the ECU figured out that something was running differently, the mileage would drop back. Reflashing the ECU would allow it to recalculate from a fresh start and get gains back. But even this stopped working after a while. I don't use electronics either; lower amps/output/FE gains. By lower, I mean like 12-15a instead of 25 on my V8 and around 8-10 on the 4 cyl.

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